glam.spoon: fashion blog

Mischief in the Details

I didn't realize until I saw the promotion online that the theme of the new Jason Wu for Target collection was mischief. Cute and appropriate. The promotional photos include a very mischievous kitty, that according to the TV commercial, inspired most of the details that you see in the clothes. If the line wasn't pretty and accessible enough, Mr. Wu added an adorable mascot to his marketing. Genius.

 

I headed north to the Everett Target location Sunday morning, specifically because I had heard that only the suburban stores would be carrying the line. This turned out not to be true, but from what I've read of the Northgate experience, I was lucky to remain in the dark.

My purpose was mostly window shopping, but there there were a couple of things I thought I might buy. Once I saw the kitty tee, however, I was sold.

I decided in January that I wasn't going to ruin a Sunday morning getting up with the alarm and trying to be there first. I'd just get there when I got there. From everything I'd seen prior to that morning, the collection looked uber cute, and a little too sweet for my taste, but truly affordable, wearable clothes that women across the country would be snapping up. Even the black & white pleated dress is sweet. In fact, the whole collection is pleated and fitted with delicate, discreet details placed just so. The colors are very fresh and mostly pastel, but done with sophistication.

What struck me when I arrived at 10:30 am is that - NO ONE was there. And there were still plenty of garments hanging on the racks. I could have purchased one of each in my size. It was admittedly an abbreviated collection from what I've seen online, and the check-out girl confirmed as much telling me "We never get the full collection of the designer collaborations." 

The skirts are a real throw back to vintage, sitting properly on the true waist, with voluminous pleats, but modernized with a hem that grazes the knee. The silhouette I liked the most online was a navy floral dress with sheer material at the top. I found out when I got to the store that it was actually separates - skirt and top (below).

The simple blouses with their soft trimmed neckline that ties with a bow in the front are very girly and extremely wearable, but sort of unremarkable. Almost everything is constructed from 100% polyester, but the tees are 100% rayon and they have a very nice hand and drape. 

I'm not sure if this location carried any of the accessories - maybe I just couldn't find them in the store. The dozen or so satchels and bags I saw online were decent, but again, nothing too special. I would have liked to see them in person. There were 3 scarf options mixed in with the clothing and I once again, had to have the one with the kitty on it (this is getting embarrassing).  On the heels of the drummed up hype surrounding the Missoni x Target collection, this launch was a cake walk.

By the way, since I'm focused on a net zero closet for 2012, I'm going to have to get rid of a couple of items to work those Wu pieces into the mix, but I think it's worth it. He's going to be an American icon someday. Looking at his higher end Spring 2012 looks, its clear that he very successfully maintained his aesthetic in creating a discount line for Target. That's something all designers struggle with. 

nicole by Nicole Miller Spring 2012 ... for JC Penney

Nicole Miller Spring 2012 Ready to Wear - images from Style.com

Watching season two of All on The Line with Joe Zee tonight, I was shocked to see a whole episode dedicated to Nicole Miller. The show typically focuses on up and coming, struggling or has-been designers that Joe Zee has to nurture and guide and scold into figuring out how to be successful; but Nicole Miller is a very successful 30 year veteran icon of the fashion industry. Apparently, when you're trying to get your audience to see you in a different way, even an established designer can use a little help.

Most people think of Nicole Miller as a classic, special ocasion, prom wear and bridal designer. After 30 years in the business, she's ready to be seen as a modern sportswear designer too. Her new collection is aimed at 20-30 somethings with street appeal and edge, but she needs the public to see her in a new light. Joe Zee to the rescue!

In the episode, he steps in to help Nicole focus her collection on a new market with a hip vibe and youthful customer appeal. He comes up with the idea that Nicole should reinvent some of her vintage pieces. Everyone else is stealing from the 80's but Nicole can steal from herself. He dubs it "Nicole Miller Rewind" and Nicole loves it.

Then Joe realizes, from polling young shoppers outside Nicole's boutique, that she needs to get the information about her young hip sportswear into the hands of those informing young hip girls today: bloggers. The PR department is instructed to give 5 front-row seats to the top fashion bloggers, and work with a casting agent to hire a few young, it-girl celebrities to wear Nicole's fresh designs while attending her runway show at New York Fashion Week. I hate to ruin the ending for you, but she killed it. The formula, the messaging, the presentation really reached it's audience, and the blogging community bought the whole enchilada - as did Neiman Marcus!

Then I received a press release for the nicole by Nicole Miller spring 2012 look book - her affordable line sold exclusively at JC Penney. I was really excited by the new looks. I've been a JC Penney shopper for years, and I've noticed the nicole collection over the years. I may have a piece or two in my closet, but this collection is really fresh. Nicole has translated her runway sportswear into a very wearable, affordable collection for JC Penney's customers. I especially liked the bohemian looks.

Although she's been producing her line for JC Penney for about 6 years, this current collection is the most vibrant, relevant aesthetic I've seen from her. She's a real inspiration to designers like myself who are (ahem), no longer in our 20's, but are designing for girls in their 20's and 30's - and the fashion bloggers they worship.

If you haven't checked out JC Penney's nicole collection in the past, this may be just the right time. Most of the sportswear, dresses, handbags, shoes and sunglasses retail for under $100. I'm looking forward to checking out the very boho looks from the upcoming collection.

Last week I ranted about the whole Missoni for Target hype, but now I'm wondering, why aren't people around the country staying up all night to get in line for this collection? Why aren't they logging onto JC Penney's website and purchasing furiously until it crashes? These designs are on point, wearable, affordably priced. I guess everything in America comes down to a popularity contest, or perhaps Target pays more for their marketing and PR consultants than JC Penney does, but that's OK with me.

Check out this cute behind-the-scenes video from the nicole by Nicole Miller Spring 2012 look book shoot. You'll see the stylish Ms. Miller herself, dressing and directing the models. 

 

Nicole Miller behind the scenes photo shoot from Hello Super 8 on Vimeo.

The brand also recently launched a sleepwear line which should be in stores in February with prices ranging from $20-$30 as well as a sunglass line hitting stores in March, beginning at $20.

For the record: I did not receive any products or monetary compensation for this post.

 

Big Name Designer + Big Box Store = overhyped collection

The highly anticipated Missoni for Target collection which was intended to be a six week promotion of 400 items in limited stock, sold out in one day. This strikes me as a skewed collective response, especially in this economy. It was also reported that some shoppers were looking to profit from the hype, getting in the doors early and then listing sold out items on eBay the same day.

Four months later there are still over 8,000 listings available on eBay in case you feel you missed out, and the inflated prices have come down to a reasonable level. There are even items still available on Target's website, which crashed on September 13th from all the traffic. 

I polled some of my fashionable friends to find out who's buying the hype. Two friends purchased from the Missoni collection. One is satisfied with her skirt, while the other found the hype to take away from the experience. I received positive remarks about the Rogan Gregory collection (which I have to admit, I completely missed) referring to the quality of construction. All I heard about Versace for H&M was that it was still too expensive. The leather cutout dress is beautiful, but at $299, it's still outside my price range. I was personally deflated when I saw Rodarte's Collection for Target, having seen the video of their solo exhibition called States of Matter. Those girls are artists, no doubt, but the Target collection was underwhelming. The Proenza Schouler for Target line gets the most praise for having quality construction and good design that doesn't look dated. 

Missoni 2012 Resort Collection via Style.com

Missoni is a family-run fashion house started in 1953, known for its colorful, patterned knitwear. Prices for their current resort wear collection, at least what's available on Net-a-porter, range from $405 for a crochet bikini to $2,125 for a strapless floor length crochet dress. 

For the Target collection they slapped their famous chevron patterned stripes on everything from pencils and teacups to bikes and furniture. It was heralded as Target's largest limited-time designer collection to date with items priced $2.99 to $599.99, but we all know what sold out first: the clothing line. Wouldn't you want to own a designer garment for a Target price?

Above left: Missoni Spring/Summer 2012 resort collection includes internal hook-fastening underwired bra, is partially lined, with concealed zipper and snap-fastenings at side, made of 50% viscose, 32% cupro, 18% polyester; lining: 91% silk, 9% elastane; $2,125 available here. 

Above right: Missoni for Target collection with double layered construction, pullover style, made of 61% acrylic, 21% nylon, 18% rayon with a lining of 100% polyester; $83.99 available here.

Target has been collaborating with high end designers for years starting in 2005 with Isaac Mizrahi, but in the early days there was no commercial hype or threat of "limited" quantities. That's where it gets weird and a little manipulative. The business plan behind the limited quantity is basic supply and demand. If the items sell out for full price, that's a victory in retail. Most of the big box retail stores will sell a percentage of new items at full price, then as they sit on the shelves they get marked down eventually ending up on the clearance racks selling for 75% off the original price. Too much supply means dwindling demand.

I wasn't there for the Target launch. I looked at the clothing online and although it was striking and very Missoni-like, I'm not a huge fan of putting stripes on my body, so I knew I wouldn't wear it. This isn't really a look I can pull off:

I did get a big kick out of the Missoni decorated bike, but this launch was so huge even powerful celebrities weren't able to log on to Target's site!

Missoni for Target three-speed, ladies bike, $399.99. Photo: Target / 2011 All Rights Reserved Target Corporation

Never one to shy away from a challenge - or maybe just to satisfy my own curiosity - I'll be getting in line very early on Sunday, February 5th for the Jason Wu/Target collaboration launch. From what I've seen online, the collection is a bit sweet, but definitely wearable. This blue dress with the sheer top has a silhouette similar to the Rachel Rachel Roy collection sold through Macy's, which is my all-time-favorite-go-to-designer-but-affordable clothing line.

However, I would definitely wear this black dress.

According to Seattle Met's Style blog, Wear What When, the line will only be carried at the Target stores in the suburbs of Seattle, which is pretty convenient for this suburban housewife. I'm hoping that the residents of Everett, Washington are not familiar with Wu and that I can walk through the doors calmly without the proverbial elbow throwing. I'll report back.